The Aria Hoodie: A Cozy Textured Knit Cardigan – Free Pattern

Wrap yourself in the luxurious warmth of the Aria Hoodie, a modern knit cardigan that combines a lush honeycomb cable panel with a softly draped hood. This pattern is designed for a relaxed, slightly oversized fit, making it the perfect layering piece for cool evenings, morning coffee, or any cozy moment in between. The rich, dimensional texture of the honeycomb cables adds an elegant, handcrafted touch to a classic silhouette. Whether you're a seasoned knitter looking for a new project or a confident beginner ready for a challenge, this free pattern will guide you through creating a stunning, wearable work of art.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following materials to ensure a smooth and enjoyable knitting experience. The Aria Hoodie is knit with worsted weight yarn, which is widely available and perfect for creating a warm, durable fabric.

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (e.g., Lion Brand Wool-Ease) in color 'Oatmeal Heather' – 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650) yards. The exact yardage depends on your chosen size (XS, S, M, L).
• Needles: US 8 (5 mm) circular needles with a 32-inch cable for the body and hood, and US 8 (5 mm) double-pointed needles for the sleeves.
• Notions: Stitch markers (including 4 locking or split markers), a cable needle, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and a stitch holder or waste yarn for the back stitches.

Gauge

Accurate gauge is crucial for achieving the correct finished measurements. Please take the time to knit a swatch and measure it after blocking.

• Stockinette Stitch: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches.
• Honeycomb Cable Pattern: 22 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches (blocked).

Step-by-Step Instructions

This pattern is worked in one piece up to the armholes, which minimizes seaming. The instructions are detailed and written for clarity, making it easy to follow along. Let's get started!

Sizes and Measurements

SIZES: XS (S, M, L) – Finished chest: 36 (40, 44, 48) inches. Length: 22 (23, 24, 25) inches.

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit two together (decrease)
• p2tog = purl two together (decrease)
• sl = slip
• cn = cable needle
• C4F = slip 2 stitches to cn, hold to front, k2, k2 from cn
• C4B = slip 2 stitches to cn, hold to back, k2, k2 from cn
• M1 = make one (increase)
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker

Special Stitch: Honeycomb Cable Panel

This pattern features a beautiful honeycomb cable panel that creates a rich, braided texture. It is worked over 12 stitches, with a multiple of 12 + 2 for the edges. Follow the chart below or the written instructions.

• Row 1 (RS): k2, *C4B, C4F, k4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl all stitches.
• Row 3: k2, *k2, C4B, C4F, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 5: k2, *k4, C4B, C4F; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 7: k2, *C4F, C4B, k4; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 9: k2, *k2, C4F, C4B, k2; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 11: k2, *k4, C4F, C4B; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
• Row 12: Purl all stitches. Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern.

Body (Worked in One Piece to Armholes)

This section is knit in one piece, which means fewer seams and a cleaner finish. You will be working the honeycomb cable panels on the front edges and stockinette stitch in between.

1. Cast On: Cast on 162 (180, 198, 216) stitches.
2. Garter Stitch Border: Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 rows. This creates a neat, non-rolling edge.
3. Set Up Pattern: Next row (RS): k2, pm, work honeycomb cable pattern over next 12 stitches, pm, k to last 14 stitches, pm, work honeycomb cable pattern over next 12 stitches, pm, k2.
4. Continue in Pattern: Continue working in this established pattern, working stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) between the markers. Work until the piece measures 14 (15, 16, 17) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Divide for Armholes

Now you will separate the body into the right front, back, and left front sections to create the armholes.

1. Next Row (RS): Work 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches (right front), bind off 10 (12, 14, 16) stitches for the armhole, work 66 (72, 78, 84) stitches (back), bind off 10 (12, 14, 16) stitches for the armhole, work 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches (left front).
2. Place Back on Holder: Carefully place the 66 (72, 78, 84) back stitches onto a stitch holder or a piece of waste yarn. You will now work on the fronts separately.

Right Front

You will now shape the armhole and neckline for the right front. Remember to keep the honeycomb cable pattern intact at the center front edge.

1. Armhole Shaping: Continue on the 38 (42, 46, 50) stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge every RS row 3 times. You will now have 35 (39, 43, 47) stitches.
2. Work Even: Work even (without shaping) until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
3. Neck Shaping: Bind off 8 (9, 10, 11) stitches at the neck edge once. Then, bind off 3 stitches at the neck edge every RS row twice. Next, bind off 2 stitches at the neck edge every RS row twice. Finally, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every RS row 3 times. You will now have 14 (17, 20, 23) stitches remaining.
4. Finish: Work even until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches. Bind off all stitches.

Left Front

The left front is worked the same as the right front, but with reversed shaping. This means the armhole decreases happen on the left side, and the neck bind-offs happen on the WS rows.

1. Attach Yarn: With the WS facing, attach yarn to the left front stitches.
2. Armhole Shaping: Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge every RS row 3 times. You will now have 35 (39, 43, 47) stitches.
3. Work Even: Work even until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
4. Neck Shaping: On the next WS row, bind off 8 (9, 10, 11) stitches at the neck edge once. Then, bind off 3 stitches at the neck edge every WS row twice. Next, bind off 2 stitches at the neck edge every WS row twice. Finally, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every WS row 3 times. You will now have 14 (17, 20, 23) stitches remaining.
5. Finish: Work even until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches. Bind off all stitches.

Back

Now you will work on the back section, which is a simple stockinette stitch rectangle with armhole shaping.

1. Return Stitches: Return the 66 (72, 78, 84) back stitches to your needles.
2. Armhole Shaping: Decrease 1 stitch at each armhole edge every RS row 3 times. You will now have 60 (66, 72, 78) stitches.
3. Work Even: Work even until the armhole measures the same length as the fronts (8 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches). Bind off all stitches.

Sleeves

The sleeves are knit top-down, picking up stitches directly from the armhole. This creates a seamless, professional-looking set-in sleeve.

1. Pick Up Stitches: With the RS facing, pick up and knit 48 (52, 56, 60) stitches evenly around the armhole opening. Place a marker at the underarm point to mark the beginning of the round.
2. Work in the Round: Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) in the round.
3. Decrease for Taper: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the underarm marker every 6th round until you have 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches remaining. This creates a gentle taper.
4. Work Even: Work even (without decreasing) until the sleeve measures 17 (18, 19, 20) inches from the underarm.
5. Garter Stitch Cuff: Work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round) for 6 rounds. Bind off loosely.

Hood

The hood is knit flat, picking up stitches along the neckline, and then grafted at the top for a seamless finish.

1. Pick Up Stitches: With the RS facing, pick up and knit 80 (84, 88, 92) stitches along the entire neck edge.
2. Work in Stockinette: Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 10 inches.
3. Increase for Shape: While working, increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 4 times. You will now have 88 (92, 96, 100) stitches.
4. Graft Top: Fold the hood in half with the RS together. Graft the top edges together using the Kitchener stitch. This creates an invisible, seamless join.
5. Attach Hood: Fold the hood back to the outside and sew it neatly to the neck edge, ensuring it drapes softly.

Finishing

Now for the final touches that will make your Aria Hoodie look polished and professional.

1. Weave in Ends: Carefully weave in all loose yarn ends using a tapestry needle.
2. Block: Block the cardigan to the specified measurements. This will even out the stitches and enhance the cable texture. Lay it flat to dry.
3. Check Seams: Since the body was worked in one piece, you should only need to check the armhole edges. Sew any small gaps closed if necessary.
4. Optional Button Band: For a more finished look, you can add a button band. Pick up stitches along the front edges and work in garter stitch for 4 rows, creating buttonholes on one side. This is entirely optional and depends on your personal style.

Congratulations! You've completed your very own Aria Hoodie. This cozy, textured cardigan is sure to become a favorite in your wardrobe. The combination of the honeycomb cables and the soft, draped hood creates a garment that is both stylish and incredibly comfortable. Enjoy wearing your handmade creation, and don't forget to share your beautiful work with the knitting community!