Sunshine Sweater Free Pattern – Textured Knit Pullover with Honeycomb Cables

Wrap yourself in the warmth of a golden meadow with this cozy, textured pullover featuring honeycomb cables and a soft, relaxed fit. The Sunshine Sweater is a joyful knit that brings a pop of sunny color to any wardrobe. This pattern is designed for knitters who are ready to take their skills to the next level with cables, but don't worry – the step-by-step instructions below are so clear and detailed that even a confident beginner can successfully create this stunning garment. The result is a beautiful, handmade sweater that looks like it came straight from a boutique.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following materials. Having everything ready will make your knitting experience smooth and enjoyable.

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in sunny yellow (e.g., Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Goldfish) – 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650) yards. The exact yardage depends on your chosen size.
• Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles, 24-32 inches long for the body and yoke. You will also need US 7 double-pointed needles (or a long circular for magic loop) for the sleeves.
• Notions: Stitch markers (at least 8), a cable needle, stitch holders or waste yarn for the sleeves, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and a measuring tape.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked. Always knit a gauge swatch to ensure your sweater fits correctly. If your gauge is off, adjust your needle size accordingly.

Step-by-Step Instructions

This sweater is knit top-down in one piece to the underarms, then sleeves are worked in the round. Follow these instructions carefully, and you'll have a beautiful sweater in no time.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

SIZES: XS (S, M, L) – Finished chest: 34 (38, 42, 46) inches. Choose the size that matches your desired ease. The sweater is designed with a relaxed fit, so you can choose a size that gives you 2-4 inches of positive ease.

Abbreviations

Familiarize yourself with these abbreviations before you start:

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit two together (decrease)
• SSK = slip slip knit (decrease)
• M1L = make one left (increase)
• M1R = make one right (increase)
• C4F = slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
• C4B = slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Yoke

CO 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.

Work 1 inch of k1, p1 ribbing. This creates a neat, stretchy neckline.

Next round: K all stitches, increasing 16 (16, 20, 20) stitches evenly spaced – 96 (104, 116, 124) stitches. To increase evenly, use M1L or M1R as you prefer.

Set up pattern: Round 1: *K12 (13, 14, 15), PM, K12 (13, 14, 15), PM* repeat from * to * around – you now have 4 markers dividing the yoke into 4 sections (front, back, two sleeves).

Increase round: *K to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L* repeat from * to * around – 8 stitches increased. This creates raglan increases at the four marked points.

Work the increase round every other round 8 (9, 10, 11) times total – 160 (176, 196, 212) stitches. After completing the increases, you will have a nicely shaped yoke.

Honeycomb Cable Pattern

Now work the honeycomb cable pattern on the front and back panels only, while continuing increases on the sleeve sections. The cable pattern is worked over 24 stitches. Place a marker on each side of the 24-stitch cable panel on the front and back to help you keep track.

HONEYCOMB CABLE PATTERN (over 24 stitches):

• Row 1 (RS): K6, C4F, C4B, K6
• Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl all stitches (if working flat) or knit all stitches (if working in the round). Since we are working in the round, you will knit these rows.
• Row 3: K4, C4B, K4, C4F, K4
• Row 5: K2, C4F, K8, C4B, K2
• Row 7: K2, C4B, K8, C4F, K2
• Row 9: K4, C4F, K4, C4B, K4
• Row 11: K6, C4B, C4F, K6
• Row 12: Knit all stitches (in the round).

Repeat rows 1-12 for the cable pattern. Continue working the raglan increases on the sleeve sections as established, while working the cable pattern on the front and back panels. The sleeve sections will be in stockinette stitch.

Continue working increases until yoke measures 8 (9, 10, 11) inches from the neckline. You should have approximately 200 (220, 244, 268) stitches. The yoke should feel comfortable and reach just below your underarms.

Divide for Body and Sleeves

Knit across the front panel stitches (including the honeycomb pattern) to the first sleeve marker. Place the next 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches (sleeve) onto a holder or waste yarn. CO 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches under the arm. Knit across the back panel stitches to the next sleeve marker. Place the next 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches (sleeve) onto a holder. CO 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches under the arm. Knit to the beginning of the round. You now have 132 (148, 168, 188) stitches for the body. The underarm cast-on stitches bridge the gap and provide ease for movement.

Body

Continue in stockinette stitch, working the honeycomb cable pattern on the front and back panels as established. The cable panels will continue seamlessly from the yoke. Work even until the body measures 12 (13, 14, 15) inches from the underarm, or desired length. Try it on to check the length – it should hit at your hip or wherever you prefer.

Work 2 inches of k1, p1 ribbing for a neat, stretchy hem. Bind off loosely in pattern. A loose bind-off ensures the hem doesn't pull or pucker.

Sleeves

Place the held sleeve stitches onto double-pointed needles. Pick up and knit 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches from the underarm cast-on. Join in the round. Place a marker at the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

Work in stockinette stitch, decreasing 2 stitches every 6 rounds (K2tog after marker, SSK before marker) until you have 40 (44, 48, 52) stitches. The decreases shape the sleeve, tapering it toward the wrist. Work even until sleeve measures 16 (17, 18, 19) inches from underarm, or desired length. You can try the sweater on to check the sleeve length.

Work 1 inch of k1, p1 ribbing for the cuff. Bind off loosely.

Finishing

Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, being careful to secure them neatly on the wrong side of the fabric. Block the sweater to measurements, paying special attention to the cable panels to open up the honeycomb texture. Wet blocking or steam blocking will help the cables relax and lay flat, revealing their beautiful dimensional pattern. Lay the sweater flat to dry, shaping it to the correct measurements.

Congratulations! You've completed your Sunshine Sweater. This textured pullover is sure to become a favorite in your wardrobe, bringing a touch of handmade warmth and sunshine to every wear.