Crochet Bunting & Garland Patterns

Autumn Hedgehog Star Bunting: Free Crochet Pattern for Olive & Ochre Leaf-Bud Garland

TrendwireUs • October 27, 2026
Autumn Hedgehog Star Bunting: Free Crochet Pattern

Autumn Hedgehog Star Bunting: A Cozy First Crochet Project

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this garland is a wonderfully forgiving place to begin. Each little hedgehog "leaf-bud" is simply a small rectangle of textured fabric that you fold, seam, and stuff into a plump, pointed shape — no complicated shaping, no counting in the round, and no pressure to be perfect. The finished garland is a row of twelve soft, seed-textured buds in warm olive and ochre, strung along a dark brown cord with tiny curled stem loops, and it looks like something you'd find in a cozy, dark-academia reading nook. It feels squishy and light in your hands, and it brings an instant autumn mood to a mantel, a shelf, or a doorway. Best of all, every stitch is explained below, so you can truly start from zero.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: Recycled cotton DK weight (approximately 125 m / 137 yd per 50 g ball). You need 1 ball olive (about 35 g used) and 1 ball ochre (about 35 g used), plus a small amount of dark brown or charcoal (about 15 g) for the cord and stem loops.
  • Main hook: 3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook — used for the hedgehog bodies.
  • Smaller hook: 3.0 mm (US D/3) crochet hook — used for the cord and stem loops.
  • Tapestry needle (a large, blunt-tipped sewing needle with an eye big enough for yarn) for seaming and weaving in ends.
  • Stitch marker (a small clip or safety pin) to help you keep your place.
  • Scissors for cutting yarn.
  • Small amount of polyester fiberfill for stuffing the bodies.

Finished size: Each hedgehog body measures approximately 7 cm (2.75 in) wide x 9 cm (3.5 in) tall including the pointed tip. The finished garland is approximately 120 cm (47 in) long, plus hanging ties at each end.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every term used in this pattern is listed here. Read it once before you start — you do not need to memorize it.

  • ch – chain: make a loop of yarn on your hook (a "slip knot"), then wrap yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop. That is one chain. A row of chains is your starting foundation.
  • sc – single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
  • hdc – half double crochet (listed for reference; not used in this pattern): wrap yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), wrap yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
  • dc – double crochet (listed for reference; not used in this pattern): wrap yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), wrap yarn over, pull through 2 loops, wrap yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
  • sl st – slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, and pull that loop straight through the loop on your hook. It makes a flat, tight join.
  • st(s) – stitch(es): one completed loop or "V" in your fabric.
  • yo – yarn over: wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front. This is the motion that creates every stitch.
  • star st – star stitch: a textured stitch made by pulling up several loops and drawing them all together (full explanation in the instructions below).
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (listed for reference; not used in this pattern): a decrease that joins two stitches into one.
  • RS – right side: the "front" or outward-facing side of your work.
  • WS – wrong side: the "back" or inward-facing side of your work.
  • Turn – flip your work over so you can crochet back along the row you just finished.
  • Fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
  • Whipstitch – a simple sewing stitch: pass the needle over the edge and back through, over and back, like lacing.
  • Running stitch – a straight stitch that goes in and out of the fabric in a dotted line; used here to gather and close an opening.

Gauge

Gauge: 18 stitches and 16 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) in star stitch fabric, using the 3.5 mm (E/4) hook.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are looser or tighter than the pattern expects, your hedgehogs will come out larger or smaller than 7 x 9 cm, and the twelve bodies may not match each other. Because this garland is made of many identical pieces, matching gauge keeps them all the same size.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 3.5 mm hook and your chosen colour, chain 24. Work Row 1 as single crochet across (23 sc). Then work the star row and the single crochet row back and forth (exactly as in the body instructions below) until your swatch is about 12 cm (5 in) tall. Lay it flat without stretching and measure a 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) square in the middle. Count the stitches across and the rows up. If you have more stitches than 18, your tension is tight — try a slightly larger hook. If you have fewer, your tension is loose — try a slightly smaller hook.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Count your loops out loud. A star stitch needs exactly 6 loops on the hook before you pull through. Counting aloud (or pointing with your finger) prevents the most common beginner mistake.
  • Do not pull your yarn too tight. Keep an easy, relaxed tension. Tight yarn makes it nearly impossible to insert your hook into the next stitch, and it flattens the lovely bumpy star texture.
  • Use your stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each row so you always know where a row begins and ends — this stops you from accidentally adding or losing stitches.
  • Make one practice body first. Crochet a single hedgehog in scrap yarn before committing to all twelve. By the second one, the star stitch will feel natural.
  • Keep your starting chain loose. A tight foundation chain makes Row 1 very hard. If you struggle, use a hook one size larger just for the chain.
  • Stuff lightly. Overstuffing stretches the fabric and hides the star texture. Plump but soft is the goal.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Overview

You will make 12 identical hedgehog bodies — 6 in olive and 6 in ochre. Each is worked flat as a star-stitch rectangle, then seamed into a rounded, pointed bud. After stuffing and closing, you will make 12 small stem loops and one long hanging cord, then sew everything together. All instructions use US crochet terms.

The Star Stitch (read this first)

Each star stitch is made like this: insert your hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops). Repeat into the next stitch (4 loops), the next (5 loops), and the next (6 loops). Now yarn over and draw through all 6 loops at once. Chain 1 to "close" the star — this chain-1 forms the eye of the star, and the next star stitch begins in that eye.

Body (make 6 in olive, 6 in ochre)

With the 3.5 mm (E/4) hook and your chosen colour, ch 22.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (21 sc) Turn.

Row 2 (star row): Ch 1. Pull up a loop in the first sc, then pull up a loop in each of the next 4 sc (6 loops on hook), yo and draw through all 6 loops, ch 1 (first star made). *Work 1 star st beginning in the ch-1 eye just made and using the next 4 sc.* Repeat from * to * until 1 sc remains. End with sc in the last sc. Turn. (4 full stars plus ending sc)

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in the first sc, then work 2 sc in each ch-1 eye across, and 1 sc in the top of the last star; sc in the final sc. (21 sc) Turn.

Rows 4–25: Repeat Rows 2–3 eleven times more. (21 sc on every single-crochet row; 4 full stars plus ending sc on every star row)

Fasten off, leaving a 40 cm (16 in) tail for seaming. The piece measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 in) wide x 14 cm (5.5 in) tall before seaming.

Shaping the Bud

Fold the rectangle in half with RS together so the star texture faces outward. Using the long tail and your tapestry needle, whipstitch the two short side edges together (pass the needle over the edge and back through, over and back, all the way along). Then seam the bottom edge, leaving a 4 cm (1.5 in) opening. Turn the piece RS out.

The top edge naturally forms a soft point. Pinch the top corners together and take 3–4 small stitches to draw them into a rounded pointed tip. Stuff lightly with polyester fiberfill until plump but not firm. Sew the bottom opening closed with a running stitch, pulling gently to round the base. Weave in the ends. Repeat for all 12 bodies.

Stem Loops (make 12)

With the 3.0 mm (D/3) hook and dark brown yarn, ch 8, then sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (7 sl st) Fasten off, leaving a 10 cm (4 in) tail. These small curled pieces become the stems.

Hanging Cord

With the 3.0 mm (D/3) hook and dark brown yarn, ch 130 (approximately 120 cm / 47 in).

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (129 sc) Fasten off, leaving 20 cm (8 in) tails at each end for the hanging ties. Block lightly.

Assembly and Finishing

Step 1 — Lay out the cord. Lay the cord flat on a table. Beginning 10 cm (4 in) from one end, pin the 12 hedgehog bodies along the cord, alternating olive and ochre, spacing them approximately 8 cm (3.25 in) apart. Check the spacing by eye before you sew — adjust pins until the bodies sit evenly.

Step 2 — Sew the bodies to the cord. Using the dark brown yarn and your tapestry needle, sew each body to the cord through its base, catching the cord securely with a few firm stitches. Work through the base only so the star texture on the front stays clean.

Step 3 — Add the stem loops. Sew one stem loop to the top of each hedgehog body, curling it slightly as you stitch so it looks like a little stem.

Step 4 — Weave in all ends. Thread each loose tail onto the tapestry needle and pass it back and forth through the inside of the work for about 2.5 cm (1 in), then trim close to the fabric. Never knot your ends — weaving hides them neatly.

Step 5 — Finish the ties. Tie a small knot at each end of the cord to finish the hanging ties.

Step 6 — Block. Steam-block the garland lightly, holding the iron a few centimetres above the fabric (never pressing down), to avoid crushing the star texture. Let it dry completely, then hang and adjust the spacing so the bodies sit evenly.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colours. Swap olive and ochre for rust, mustard, and deep plum for a richer autumn palette, or use a single colour for a minimalist look. Keep the dark brown cord for contrast.
  • Make it longer or shorter. For a longer garland, simply add more bodies and lengthen the cord — add roughly 8 cm (3.25 in) of cord plus one extra body for each additional hedgehog. For a shorter one, use fewer bodies and shorten the cord by the same amount.
  • Substitute the yarn. Any DK-weight yarn works, but choose a smooth, matte yarn so the star texture shows clearly. If you use a thicker yarn, go up a hook size and check your gauge swatch first.
  • Add a little sparkle. Sew a single tiny bead or a small embroidered French knot near the base of each stem loop for a subtle detail — keep it minimal to preserve the rustic, no-face look.

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