Clover Lane Sweater Free Pattern – Knit a Whimsical Meadow Yoke Pullover

Wrap yourself in the charm of a sunlit meadow with this cozy, textured yoke sweater featuring delicate leaf motifs and a soft, earthy palette. This free pattern guides you through creating a timeless pullover that feels like a gentle breeze through clover fields. The Clover Lane Sweater is the perfect project for knitters ready to advance beyond basic garments—its circular yoke construction and botanical detailing make it both engaging to knit and stunning to wear.

Whether you're curling up with tea on a chilly afternoon or stepping out for a rustic autumn walk, this pullover delivers warmth, style, and a touch of whimsy. The combination of sage green, cream, and dusty rose creates a palette that feels both grounded and dreamy—like walking through a field of clover at golden hour.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following materials. Having everything ready will make your knitting experience smooth and enjoyable.

Yarn

• Main Color (MC) – Sage Green: Worsted weight yarn. Approximately 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650) yards depending on size.
• Contrast Color 1 (CC1) – Cream: Approximately 200 yards.
• Contrast Color 2 (CC2) – Dusty Rose: Approximately 150 yards.

Pro tip: Choose a soft, breathable worsted weight yarn like a merino-wool blend for the best drape and comfort. The yarn should have good stitch definition to showcase the leaf motifs beautifully.

Needles

• US 7 (4.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle for the yoke
• US 7 (4.5 mm) 32-inch circular needle for the body
• US 7 (4.5 mm) double-pointed needles for sleeves (or use a long circular needle with the magic loop method)

Other Supplies

• Stitch markers (at least 5)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeve stitches
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Gauge

20 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, after blocking. Always knit a gauge swatch before starting—this ensures your finished sweater fits as intended. Block your swatch the same way you'll block the finished garment.

Step-by-Step Instructions

This pattern is written for sizes XS (S, M, L) with a finished chest measurement of 34 (38, 42, 46) inches. Choose the size that gives you 2-4 inches of positive ease for a comfortable, relaxed fit. Throughout the pattern, numbers are listed in order of size: XS (S, M, L).

Abbreviations

• CO – cast on
• K – knit
• P – purl
• K2tog – knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• YO – yarn over
• PM – place marker
• SM – slip marker
• M1L – make one left (increase)
• M1R – make one right (increase)
• St st – stockinette stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side; in the round, knit every round)

Yoke

Step 1: Cast On and Ribbing
With CC1 (cream) and your shorter 16-inch circular needle, CO 88 (96, 104, 112) stitches. Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Work K1, P1 ribbing for 1 inch. This creates a neat, stretchy neckline that will comfortably slip over your head.

Step 2: Begin Increases
Switch to MC (sage green). Knit 2 rounds even to establish the stockinette stitch.

Increase Round 1: *K11 (12, 13, 14), M1L* repeat to end of round – 96 (104, 112, 120) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 2: *K12 (13, 14, 15), M1L* repeat to end – 104 (112, 120, 128) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 3: *K13 (14, 15, 16), M1L* repeat to end – 112 (120, 128, 136) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 4: *K14 (15, 16, 17), M1L* repeat to end – 120 (128, 136, 144) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 5: *K15 (16, 17, 18), M1L* repeat to end – 128 (136, 144, 152) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 6: *K16 (17, 18, 19), M1L* repeat to end – 136 (144, 152, 160) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 7: *K17 (18, 19, 20), M1L* repeat to end – 144 (152, 160, 168) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 8: *K18 (19, 20, 21), M1L* repeat to end – 152 (160, 168, 176) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 9: *K19 (20, 21, 22), M1L* repeat to end – 160 (168, 176, 184) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 10: *K20 (21, 22, 23), M1L* repeat to end – 168 (176, 184, 192) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 11: *K21 (22, 23, 24), M1L* repeat to end – 176 (184, 192, 200) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 12: *K22 (23, 24, 25), M1L* repeat to end – 184 (192, 200, 208) stitches.

Note: The M1L increase creates a left-leaning increase that's nearly invisible in stockinette. To work M1L, insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand between stitches, then knit through the back loop.

Leaf Motif Pattern

Now you'll create the whimsical meadow design using CC2 (dusty rose) and CC1 (cream). This repeating pattern of leaves and eyelets gives the sweater its signature charm.

Round 1 (CC2): *K1, YO, K3, SSK, K2tog, K3, YO, K1* repeat to end of round.
Round 2 (CC2): Knit all stitches.

Round 3 (CC2): *K2, YO, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, YO, K2* repeat to end.
Round 4 (CC2): Knit all stitches.

Round 5 (CC2): *K3, YO, K1, SSK, K2tog, K1, YO, K3* repeat to end.
Round 6 (CC2): Knit all stitches.

Round 7 (CC2): *K4, YO, SSK, K2tog, YO, K4* repeat to end.
Round 8 (CC2): Knit all stitches.

Round 9 (CC1): *K5, YO, K2tog, YO, K5* repeat to end.
Round 10 (CC1): Knit all stitches.

Round 11 (CC1): *K6, YO, K2tog, YO, K6* repeat to end.
Round 12 (CC1): Knit all stitches.

Round 13 (CC1): *K7, YO, K2tog, YO, K7* repeat to end.
Round 14 (CC1): Knit all stitches.

Round 15 (CC1): *K8, YO, K2tog, YO, K8* repeat to end.
Round 16 (CC1): Knit all stitches.

Helpful tip: The SSK and K2tog decreases work together to create the pointed tip of each leaf, while the YOs form the eyelets that give the motif an airy, botanical feel. Keep your tension consistent—especially with the YOs—to ensure the motifs lie flat and even.

Continue Yoke Increases

Switch back to MC (sage green). Knit 2 rounds even.

Increase Round 13: *K23 (24, 25, 26), M1L* repeat to end – 192 (200, 208, 216) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 14: *K24 (25, 26, 27), M1L* repeat to end – 200 (208, 216, 224) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 15: *K25 (26, 27, 28), M1L* repeat to end – 208 (216, 224, 232) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 16: *K26 (27, 28, 29), M1L* repeat to end – 216 (224, 232, 240) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 17: *K27 (28, 29, 30), M1L* repeat to end – 224 (232, 240, 248) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 18: *K28 (29, 30, 31), M1L* repeat to end – 232 (240, 248, 256) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 19: *K29 (30, 31, 32), M1L* repeat to end – 240 (248, 256, 264) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 20: *K30 (31, 32, 33), M1L* repeat to end – 248 (256, 264, 272) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 21: *K31 (32, 33, 34), M1L* repeat to end – 256 (264, 272, 280) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 22: *K32 (33, 34, 35), M1L* repeat to end – 264 (272, 280, 288) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 23: *K33 (34, 35, 36), M1L* repeat to end – 272 (280, 288, 296) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 24: *K34 (35, 36, 37), M1L* repeat to end – 280 (288, 296, 304) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 25: *K35 (36, 37, 38), M1L* repeat to end – 288 (296, 304, 312) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 26: *K36 (37, 38, 39), M1L* repeat to end – 296 (304, 312, 320) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 27: *K37 (38, 39, 40), M1L* repeat to end – 304 (312, 320, 328) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Increase Round 28: *K38 (39, 40, 41), M1L* repeat to end – 312 (320, 328, 336) stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.

Divide for Body and Sleeves

Now you'll separate the yoke into body and sleeve sections. This is an exciting milestone—your sweater is about to take shape!

Knit 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches for the right front. Place the next 64 (66, 68, 70) stitches on waste yarn for the right sleeve. Cast on 8 (10, 12, 14) stitches for the underarm. Knit 92 (96, 100, 104) stitches for the back. Place the next 64 (66, 68, 70) stitches on waste yarn for the left sleeve. Cast on 8 (10, 12, 14) stitches for the underarm. Knit the remaining 46 (48, 50, 52) stitches for the left front.

Total body stitches: 200 (212, 224, 236).

Tip: When placing sleeve stitches on waste yarn, use a contrasting color so it's easy to see. Thread the waste yarn through the stitches using a tapestry needle, then tie the ends loosely to secure.

Body

Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until the body measures 12 (13, 14, 15) inches from the underarm, or your desired length. Try the sweater on as you go—the beauty of knitting top-down is that you can easily customize the length.

Switch to CC1 (cream). Work K1, P1 ribbing for 1.5 inches. Bind off loosely in pattern. A loose bind-off is essential for a stretchy hem that doesn't flare or pucker.

Sleeves

Transfer the sleeve stitches from waste yarn to your double-pointed needles or long circular needle. Pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 14) stitches from the underarm cast-on edge. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.

Total sleeve stitches: 72 (76, 80, 84).

Knit 2 rounds even.

Decrease Round: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1 – 70 (74, 78, 82) stitches remain.

Knit 7 rounds even. Repeat the decrease round every 8th round until 48 (52, 56, 60) stitches remain. This gradual tapering creates a comfortable, fitted sleeve that doesn't feel bulky at the wrist.

Continue in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 16 (17, 18, 19) inches from the underarm, or your desired length. Remember that the ribbed cuff will add about an

---