Free Pattern: Undyed Chevron Pointed Hem Knit Dog Sweater

Introduction

If you have ever wanted to knit something for your dog but felt nervous about shaping, armholes, and complicated construction, this is the pattern for you. This little sweater is worked as one simple straight tube from the neck down, so there is no seaming, no picking up stitches along a back, and no confusing short rows. The magic happens in the stitch pattern: a repeating chevron (zigzag) design that uses simple increases and decreases to create V-shaped lines with tiny eyelet holes, and a naturally pointed zigzag hem at the back that forms all by itself as you knit. Worked in plain undyed worsted cotton, the finished sweater has a clean, modern, natural look with a soft matte texture and lovely stitch definition. It is light enough for mild days, easy to wash, and cozy enough that your dog will happily wear it on chilly walks. Best of all, every single technique is explained below, so even a total beginner can make this.

Materials Needed

Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC #4) cotton yarn, undyed natural cream. Approx. 150–200 yds (137–183 m) for size Small; 220–280 yds (201–256 m) for size Medium. One 100 g skein is usually enough for Small; buy two for Medium to be safe.
Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) 16" (40 cm) circular needle for the main tube, plus a set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs) for the small leg-opening edgings.
Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark the beginning of the round and the leg openings.
Tapestry needle: A blunt, large-eye needle for weaving in ends.
Scissors: For cutting yarn.
Stitch holder or waste yarn: Optional, for holding stitches if you need to set the work down.
Finished measurements: Chest circumference 14 (18)" / 35.5 (45.5) cm; back length from neck to point of hem 10 (13)" / 25.5 (33) cm; neck opening approx. 9 (11)" / 23 (28) cm circumference. Sizes are written as Small (Medium) throughout.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

k – knit. Hold the yarn behind the work, insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn around, and pull it through to make a new stitch.
p – purl. Hold the yarn in front of the work, insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap the yarn, and pull it through.
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together. Insert your needle into the next two stitches at once and knit them as one. This is a right-leaning decrease (it slants to the right).
ssk – slip, slip, knit. Slip the next two stitches one at a time from the left needle to the right needle as if to knit, then insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together. This is a left-leaning decrease (it slants to the left).
yo – yarn over. Wrap the yarn once over the right needle to create an extra loop. On the next round this loop is knitted, which makes a small eyelet hole.
pm – place marker. Slide a stitch marker onto your needle to mark a spot.
sm – slip marker. Move the marker from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it.
st(s) – stitch(es).
rnd(s) – round(s). One complete pass all the way around the tube when working in the round.
rep – repeat. Do the instruction again.
* … * – work everything between the asterisks as many times as instructed.
bind off – the way to finish an edge so stitches do not unravel. Knit the first stitch, knit the next, then lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Repeat across.
cast on – the way to create your very first stitches on the needle.
long-tail cast-on – a common, stretchy cast-on. Make a slip knot, then use your thumb and finger to form a "V" of yarn and loop it onto the needle repeatedly.
backward-loop cast-on – the simplest cast-on: make a loop with your fingers and place it on the needle. Used here to add stitches over the leg openings.
work in the round – knitting in a continuous spiral on circular needles so there is no seam.

Gauge

20 sts and 28 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in chevron pattern worked in the round, blocked.

Why gauge matters: This sweater is a straight tube, so the number of stitches and your gauge together decide whether it fits your dog. If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch), the sweater will be too big; too tight, and it will be too small. Always check gauge before you begin.

How to make a gauge swatch: Cast on 30 stitches, join to work in the round (or knit flat and ignore the difference for a quick check), and work the Chevron Pattern for about 4" (10 cm). Bind off, gently wash and lay flat to dry, then lay a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 4" (10 cm). If you have more than 20, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down. Repeat until you match.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

Use stitch markers to track rounds. Place one at the beginning of the round so you always know where you are, and use extra markers at the leg openings.
Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension should be relaxed. Tight stitches make the yarn overs close up and the sweater stiff.
Count your stitches after every pattern round. The chevron pattern keeps the count the same (70 [90] sts), so if you are off, you can fix it right away.
Check that your cast-on is not twisted before you join in the round. Straighten all stitches so they face the same way along the needle.
Work the yarn overs loosely. They are meant to be visible little eyelet holes; tight yarn overs disappear.
Read the whole pattern once first. Knowing what is coming makes each round much easier.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Chevron Pattern (multiple of 10 sts, worked in the round)

Rnd 1: *K1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, yo; rep from * to end. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 2: Knit all stitches. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 3: *K2, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 4: Knit all stitches. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 5: *K3, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to end. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 6: Knit all stitches. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 7: *K4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * to end. (70 [90] sts)

Rnd 8: Knit all stitches. (70 [90] sts)

Repeat Rnds 1–8 for the chevron pattern. Each repeat forms a zigzag chevron with eyelet points.

Body

With the circular needle, cast on 70 (90) sts using the long-tail cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a marker (pm) for the beginning of the round.

Neck ribbing:

Rnds 1–6: *K1, p1; rep from * to end. (70 [90] sts)

Set-up rnd: Knit all stitches, increasing 0 (0) sts. (70 [90] sts)

Begin chevron pattern: Work Rnds 1–8 of the Chevron Pattern 7 (9) times, then work Rnds 1–4 once more. That is 60 (76) rounds total. Piece measures approx. 9 (12)" / 23 (30.5) cm from the cast-on edge.

Leg Openings

Next rnd (set-up for openings): K10 (14), pm, bind off 12 (16) sts for the first front leg opening, pm, knit to end, pm, bind off 12 (16) sts for the second leg opening, pm, knit to end. (46 [58] sts remain on the needle; 12 [16] sts bound off at each opening)

Next rnd: Knit all stitches, casting on 12 (16) sts over each bound-off section using the backward-loop cast-on. (70 [90] sts)

Continue in chevron pattern as established: work Rnds 5–8 of the pattern, then Rnds 1–8 for 2 (3) more repeats, then Rnds 1–4 once. Piece measures approx. 10 (13)" / 25.5 (33) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a Rnd 4.

Pointed Zigzag Hem

Rnds 5–8: Work Rnds 5–8 of the Chevron Pattern once more. The chevron decreases and yarn overs create the pointed zigzag edge. (70 [90] sts)

Bind off all stitches loosely in pattern: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches, and work yarn overs as knit stitches. Do not cut the yarn yet.

Leg Opening Edging (worked twice)

With the double-pointed needles, pick up and knit 12 (16) sts around one leg opening (insert the needle tip into the edge and knit a loop through each bound-off stitch).

Rnds 1–3: *K1, p1; rep from * to end. (12 [16] sts)

Bind off loosely in ribbing. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Assembly and Finishing

Weave in ends: Thread each loose yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the back of several stitches, then trim close to the fabric. This hides the ends so they will not show or come undone.

Blocking: Gently wash the sweater in cool water with a little wool wash or mild soap, squeeze (do not wring) out the water, and roll it in a towel. Lay it flat to the finished measurements, pinning out the zigzag hem points so they lie flat and open. Let it dry completely. The eyelet yarn overs should be visible as small holes along the chevron lines.

Final check: Try the sweater on your dog. The neck should slip over the head comfortably, the leg openings should sit at the front legs, and the pointed hem should rest along the back.

Pro Tips and Variations

Change the color: This pattern looks lovely in any solid color. Try a soft sage, dusty blue, or charcoal for a different look, or add stripes by changing yarn every 8-round repeat.
Adjust the size: Add or subtract stitches in multiples of 10 (one chevron repeat). Each 10-stitch repeat adds approx. 2" (5 cm) to the chest circumference. Adjust length by adding or removing 8-round pattern repeats.
Substitute yarn: A worsted weight wool or wool-blend works beautifully and is warmer for cold weather. Just check your gauge again, because different fibers knit up at different sizes.
Make it longer: For a coat-style sweater, add 2–4 extra chevron repeats before the leg openings and again after them, keeping the pointed hem as written.