Burgundy Crest Octopus Bauble Knitting Pattern: Free Mosaic Slip-Stitch Toy

Meet Your New Favorite Little Friend: The Burgundy Crest Octopus Bauble

If you have never knitted a single stitch before, this is the perfect first project to fall in love with. The Burgundy Crest Octopus Bauble is a small, round stuffed ornament — about the size of a plum — with a tall gold shield-shaped crest on the front and eight tiny curly tentacles at the base. It is worked flat on straight needles, so you never have to juggle complicated circular needles, and the mosaic slip-stitch pattern means you only ever use one color at a time. The finished bauble feels soft and squishy in your hand, with a neat, slightly ridged cotton texture and a proud little gold crest that looks far more advanced than it really is. Hang it on a tree, tie it to a gift bag, or keep it on your desk as a tiny preppy mascot — either way, you made it yourself.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn (approximately 125 yds / 115 m per 50 g ball). You need 1 ball burgundy (MC) and 1 ball gold (CC). The sample uses about 30 g burgundy and 8 g gold, so one ball of each is plenty.
• Needles: One pair of 3.75 mm (US 5) single-point knitting needles.
• For tentacles: One 3.75 mm (US 5) double-pointed needle (or a cable needle) for the 3-stitch I-cord.
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Stitch markers: A few removable stitch markers to hold your place and mark the center stitch.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (a small handful).
• Finished size: Body approximately 3 in / 7.5 cm in diameter when stuffed. Tentacles approximately 1.5 in / 4 cm long. Hanging loop approximately 1 in / 2.5 cm.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• k – knit: insert the right needle into the front of the stitch, wrap yarn around, and pull the loop through.
• p – purl: insert the right needle into the front of the stitch with yarn in front, wrap yarn, and pull the loop through to the back.
• sl1wyif – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front: move the stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it, keeping the working yarn on the side facing you.
• sl1wyib – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back: move the stitch across without knitting it, keeping the working yarn on the far side.
• st(s) – stitch(es): one loop of yarn on your needle.
• MC – main color (burgundy).
• CC – contrast color (gold).
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together: makes one stitch where there were two (a decrease).
• p2tog – purl 2 stitches together: a purl decrease.
• RS – right side: the front, outward-facing side of your work.
• WS – wrong side: the back, inward-facing side.
• I-cord – a tiny knitted tube made by knitting a few stitches, sliding them back to the other end of the needle, and knitting them again.
• Garter stitch – knitting every row, which makes a bumpy, stretchy fabric.
• Mosaic slip-stitch – a color pattern where you knit some stitches and slip others, using only one color per row.

Gauge

22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in mosaic slip-stitch pattern, worked flat and measured unstretched.

Gauge matters because it tells you how big your finished bauble will be. If your stitches are too big, the octopus will be loose and floppy; if they are too tight, it will be stiff and small. To check, cast on about 30 stitches, work a few inches of the pattern, and measure a 4-inch square in the middle. Gauge is not critical for a toy, but a tighter gauge gives a firmer, neater bauble.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker to mark the center stitch of the crest so you always know where the gold shield is growing.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight when slipping stitches — keep it relaxed so the fabric stays smooth.
• Carry the unused color loosely up the side edge rather than cutting it every row.
• Count your stitches at the end of every row. You should always have 33 stitches on the body.
• Stuff a little at a time so the crest stays flat and the sphere stays round.
• Work the I-cord slowly — it feels odd at first, but after a few rows it becomes easy.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Body (worked flat, cast on at the bottom)

Using MC, cast on 33 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Using MC, knit across. (33 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Using MC, knit across. (33 sts)

Row 3 (RS): Using MC, k16, sl1wyib, k16. (33 sts)

Row 4 (WS): Using MC, k16, sl1wyif, k16. (33 sts)

Row 5 (RS): Using MC, k15, sl1wyib, k1, sl1wyib, k15. (33 sts)

Row 6 (WS): Using MC, k15, sl1wyif, k1, sl1wyif, k15. (33 sts)

Row 7 (RS): Using MC, k14, sl1wyib, k3, sl1wyib, k14. (33 sts)

Row 8 (WS): Using MC, k14, sl1wyif, k3, sl1wyif, k14. (33 sts)

Row 9 (RS): Using MC, k13, sl1wyib, k5, sl1wyib, k13. (33 sts)

Row 10 (WS): Using MC, k13, sl1wyif, k5, sl1wyif, k13. (33 sts)

Row 11 (RS): Using MC, k12, sl1wyib, k7, sl1wyib, k12. (33 sts)

Row 12 (WS): Using MC, k12, sl1wyif, k7, sl1wyif, k12. (33 sts)

Row 13 (RS): Using MC, k11, sl1wyib, k9, sl1wyib, k11. (33 sts)

Row 14 (WS): Using MC, k11, sl1wyif, k9, sl1wyif, k11. (33 sts)

Row 15 (RS): Using MC, k10, sl1wyib, k11, sl1wyib, k10. (33 sts)

Row 16 (WS): Using MC, k10, sl1wyif, k11, sl1wyif, k10. (33 sts)

Row 17 (RS): Using MC, k9, sl1wyib, k13, sl1wyib, k9. (33 sts)

Row 18 (WS): Using MC, k9, sl1wyif, k13, sl1wyif, k9. (33 sts)

Row 19 (RS): Using MC, k8, sl1wyib, k15, sl1wyib, k8. (33 sts)

Row 20 (WS): Using MC, k8, sl1wyif, k15, sl1wyif, k8. (33 sts)

Row 21 (RS): Using MC, k7, sl1wyib, k17, sl1wyib, k7. (33 sts)

Row 22 (WS): Using MC, k7, sl1wyif, k17, sl1wyif, k7. (33 sts)

Row 23 (RS): Using MC, k6, sl1wyib, k19, sl1wyib, k6. (33 sts)

Row 24 (WS): Using MC, k6, sl1wyif, k19, sl1wyif, k6. (33 sts)

Row 25 (RS): Using MC, k5, sl1wyib, k21, sl1wyib, k5. (33 sts)

Row 26 (WS): Using MC, k5, sl1wyif, k21, sl1wyif, k5. (33 sts)

Row 27 (RS): Using MC, k4, sl1wyib, k23, sl1wyib, k4. (33 sts)

Row 28 (WS): Using MC, k4, sl1wyif, k23, sl1wyif, k4. (33 sts)

Row 29 (RS): Using MC, k3, sl1wyib, k25, sl1wyib, k3. (33 sts)

Row 30 (WS): Using MC, k3, sl1wyif, k25, sl1wyif, k3. (33 sts)

Row 31 (RS): Using MC, k2, sl1wyib, k27, sl1wyib, k2. (33 sts)

Row 32 (WS): Using MC, k2, sl1wyif, k27, sl1wyif, k2. (33 sts)

Row 33 (RS): Using MC, k1, sl1wyib, k29, sl1wyib, k1. (33 sts)

Row 34 (WS): Using MC, k1, sl1wyif, k29, sl1wyif, k1. (33 sts)

Row 35 (RS): Using MC, sl1wyib, k31, sl1wyib. (33 sts)

Row 36 (WS): Using MC, sl1wyif, k31, sl1wyif. (33 sts)

Rows 37–40: Using MC, knit across every row (4 rows plain garter). (33 sts)

Row 41 (RS): Using MC, sl1wyib, k31, sl1wyib. (33 sts)

Row 42 (WS): Using MC, sl1wyif, k31, sl1wyif. (33 sts)

Row 43 (RS): Using MC, k1, sl1wyib, k29, sl1wyib, k1. (33 sts)

Row 44 (WS): Using MC, k1, sl1wyif, k29, sl1wyif, k1. (33 sts)

Row 45 (RS): Using MC, k2, sl1wyib, k27, sl1wyib, k2. (33 sts)

Row 46 (WS): Using MC, k2, sl1wyif, k27, sl1wyif, k2. (33 sts)

Row 47 (RS): Using MC, k3, sl1wyib, k25, sl1wyib, k3. (33 sts)

Row 48 (WS): Using MC, k3, sl1wyif, k25, sl1wyif, k3. (33 sts)

Row 49 (RS): Using MC, k4, sl1wyib, k23, sl1wyib, k4. (33 sts)

Row 50 (WS): Using MC, k4, sl1wyif, k23, sl1wyif, k4. (33 sts)

Row 51 (RS): Using MC, k5, sl1wyib, k21, sl1wyib, k5. (33 sts)

Row 52 (WS): Using MC, k5, sl1wyif, k21, sl1wyif, k5. (33 sts)

Row 53 (RS): Using MC, k6, sl1wyib, k19, sl1wyib, k6. (33 sts)

Row 54 (WS): Using MC, k6, sl1wyif, k19, sl1wyif, k6. (33 sts)

Row 55 (RS): Using MC, k7, sl1wyib, k17, sl1wyib, k7. (33 sts)

Row 56 (WS): Using MC, k7, sl1wyif, k17, sl1wyif, k7. (33 sts)

Row 57 (RS): Using MC, k8, sl1wyib, k15, sl1wyib, k8. (33 sts)

Row 58 (WS): Using MC, k8, sl1wyif, k15, sl1wyif, k8. (33 sts)

Row 59 (RS): Using MC, k9, sl1wyib, k13, sl1wyib, k9. (33 sts)

Row 60 (WS): Using MC, k9, sl1wyif, k13, sl1wyif, k9. (33 sts)

Row 61 (RS): Using MC, k10, sl1wyib, k11, sl1wyib, k10. (33 sts)

Row 62 (WS): Using MC, k10, sl1wyif, k11, sl1wyif, k10. (33 sts)

Row 63 (RS): Using MC, k11, sl1wyib, k9, sl1wyib, k11. (33 sts)

Row 64 (WS): Using MC, k11, sl1wyif, k9, sl1wyif, k11. (33 sts)

Row 65 (RS): Using MC, k12, sl1wyib, k7, sl1wyib, k12. (33 sts)

Row 66 (WS): Using MC, k12, sl1wyif, k7, sl1wyif, k12. (33 sts)

Row 67 (RS): Using MC, k13, sl1wyib, k5, sl1wyib, k13. (33 sts)

Row 68 (WS): Using MC, k13, sl1wyif, k5, sl1wyif, k13. (33 sts)

Row 69 (RS): Using MC, k14, sl1wyib, k3, sl1wyib, k14. (33 sts)

Row 70 (WS): Using MC, k14, sl1wyif, k3, sl1wyif, k14. (33 sts)

Row 71 (RS): Using MC, k15, sl1wyib, k1, sl1wyib, k15. (33 sts)

Row 72 (WS): Using MC, k15, sl1wyif, k1, sl1wyif, k15. (33 sts)

Row 73 (RS): Using MC, k16, sl1wyib, k16. (33 sts)

Row 74 (WS): Using MC, k16, sl1wyif, k16. (33 sts)

Row 75 (RS): Using MC, knit across. (33 sts)

Row 76 (WS): Using MC, knit across. (33 sts)

Bind off all 33 sts loosely knitwise. Cut yarn, leaving a 20 in / 50 cm tail for seaming.

Tentacles (make 8)

Each tentacle is a short 3-stitch I-cord worked in burgundy with a gold tip.

Using MC, cast on 3 sts onto a double-pointed needle.

I-cord row: k3, then slide the stitches to the other end of the needle without turning; pull the working yarn snugly across the back. Repeat this I-cord row 14 times (approximately 1.25 in / 3 cm of cord). (3 sts)

Change to CC and work 4 more I-cord rows for the gold tip. (3 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 6 in / 15 cm tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle, pass it through the 3 live stitches, and pull tight to close the tip. Weave the beginning tail into the base of the tentacle. Make 8 tentacles in total.

Hanging Loop

Using MC, cast on 3 sts. Work 8 rows of I-cord as described above. Bind off. Set aside.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Seam the body. With RS facing, fold the body in half along the side edges so the cast-on and bound-off edges meet at the bottom center. Using the long MC tail and a mattress stitch (a seaming stitch that joins two edges invisibly), seam the two side edges together, leaving a 2 in / 5 cm opening at the bottom center for stuffing. Do not seam the cast-on or bound-off edges closed yet.

2. Turn and stuff. Turn the bauble RS out through the opening. Stuff firmly and evenly with polyester fiberfill until the sphere holds its round shape, approximately 3 in / 7.5 cm in diameter. Add small amounts of stuffing at a time so the mosaic crest stays smooth and flat on the front.

3. Close the bottom. Thread a tapestry needle with MC and close the bottom opening with a small ladder stitch (a stitch that pulls two edges together invisibly), drawing the cast-on and bound-off edges together neatly.

4. Attach the tentacles. Attach the 8 tentacles evenly around the base: pin each tentacle base approximately 1/4 in / 6 mm from the bottom closing seam, spacing them evenly around the circumference. Using MC and a tapestry needle, sew each tentacle base securely to the body with 4–5 small stitches, then knot the yarn on the inside and weave in the end. The tentacles should radiate outward and curl gently downward.

5. Add the hanging loop. Fold the hanging loop in half and sew both ends firmly to the top center of the bauble with MC, using several small stitches. Knot on the inside and weave in the end.

6. Weave in and shape. Weave in all remaining ends. Gently shape the bauble between your palms. Do not press with an iron; steam lightly only if needed, holding the iron above the surface.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap burgundy and gold for navy and cream, forest green and white, or any two colors that make your crest pop.
• Make it bigger: Use worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm (US 7) needles for a larger bauble, or add extra plain garter rows in the middle for a taller shape.
• Try a different yarn: Acrylic or a cotton-blend yarn works well and is easy to wash; just check your gauge so the finished size stays close to 3 inches.
• Add a face: Embroider two tiny black eyes and a small smile just below the crest with a few straight stitches for an extra-friendly octopus.