The Timeless Tundra Cable Hooded Sweater: A Free Knitting Pattern for a Cozy, Oversized Pullover

Wrap Yourself in Warmth: The Timeless Tundra Cable Hooded Sweater

There are sweaters, and then there are sweaters. The Timeless Tundra is the latter—a project that feels like a rite of passage for any knitter. This generously oversized, hooded pullover combines the dramatic, heirloom-quality texture of a central aran cable with a modern, relaxed silhouette. The result is a piece that is both deeply comforting and strikingly beautiful. Whether you are curled up by a fire or braving a winter walk, this sweater is designed to be your constant companion. This pattern is written to guide you through every twist and turn, from the first cast-on to the final seam, ensuring you create a garment you will treasure for years.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather your tools. The right materials make all the difference in achieving that perfect, cozy finish.

• Yarn: Worsted weight wool or wool blend. You will need approximately 1800-2200 yards for sizes S through 2XL. The sample shown uses a heathered oatmeal colorway for a classic, rustic look.
• Needles:
  • US 8 (5mm) 32-inch circular needle (for ribbing)
  • US 9 (5.5mm) 32-inch circular needle (for main body and hood)
  • A cable needle (or a double-pointed needle of similar size)
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors.
• Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles, after blocking. Always check your gauge!

Step-by-Step Instructions

This pattern is written for sizes S (M, L, XL, 2XL). The finished chest circumference is 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) inches, designed with 6-8 inches of positive ease for that perfect oversized fit.

Abbreviations

• CO: Cast on
• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• C4F: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle.
• C4B: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle.
• M1L: Make one left (increase)
• M1R: Make one right (increase)
• K2tog: Knit two together (decrease)
• SSK: Slip, slip, knit (decrease)
• St(s): Stitch(es)
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side

Cable Panel Pattern (worked over 16 stitches)

This is the heart of the sweater. Repeat these 8 rows for the central panel.

• Row 1 (RS): P2, C4F, K4, C4B, P2.
• Row 2 (and all WS rows): Purl all purl stitches, knit all knit stitches as they appear. (So: K2, P4, K4, P4, K2)
• Row 3: P2, K2, C4F, C4B, K2, P2.
• Row 5: P2, C4B, K4, C4F, P2.
• Row 7: P2, K2, C4B, C4F, K2, P2.
• Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Back

1. Ribbing: With smaller needles (US 8), CO 90 (98, 106, 114, 122) sts. Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 3 inches, ending with a WS row.
2. Set-up Row (RS): Switch to larger needles (US 9). K 37 (41, 45, 49, 53), place marker (pm), work Row 1 of Cable Panel over next 16 sts, pm, K 37 (41, 45, 49, 53).
3. Body: Continue in stockinette on the sides and cable pattern on the center 16 sts until the piece measures 16 (16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
4. Armhole Shaping:
   • Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
   • Decrease row (RS): K1, SSK, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
   • Repeat this decrease row every RS row 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) more times. You will have 74 (78, 82, 86, 90) sts remaining.
   • Work even (no decreases) until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) inches from the bind-off, ending with a WS row.
5. Shoulder Shaping:
   • Bind off 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows.
   • Then bind off 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
   • Bind off the remaining 24 (24, 26, 26, 28) sts for the back neck.

Front

1. Work exactly as the back until the armhole measures 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7) inches from the bind-off, ending with a WS row.
2. Neck Shaping:
   • Work 28 (30, 31, 33, 34) sts. Join a second ball of yarn. Bind off the center 18 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts. Work to the end of the row.
   • Working both sides simultaneously, decrease at each neck edge every RS row: K1, SSK at the beginning of the right side, and K2tog, K1 at the end of the left side. Repeat this decrease 4 times. You will have 24 (26, 27, 29, 30) sts remaining for each shoulder.
   • Work even until the armhole measures the same as the back.
   • Work shoulder shaping exactly as for the back.

Sleeves (make 2)

1. Ribbing: With smaller needles, CO 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) sts. Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 3 inches, ending with a WS row.
2. Body: Switch to larger needles. Work in stockinette stitch, increasing 1 stitch on each side every 6 rows 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times. To do this, on a RS row: K1, M1L, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1. You will have 62 (68, 76, 80, 86) sts.
3. Work even until the sleeve measures 18 (18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) inches from the cast-on, ending with a WS row.
4. Sleeve Cap:
   • Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
   • Decrease row (RS): K1, SSK, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
   • Repeat this decrease row every RS row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) more times. You will have 30 (32, 36, 38, 40) sts remaining.
   • Bind off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
   • Bind off the remaining 18 (20, 24, 26, 28) sts.

Hood

1. Sew the shoulder seams using your preferred method (mattress stitch works beautifully).
2. With larger needles, pick up and knit 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts around the neckline, including the bound-off stitches.
3. Set-up row (WS): P 32 (34, 36, 38, 40), pm, work Row 2 of Cable Panel over next 16 sts, pm, P 32 (34, 36, 38, 40).
4. Continue in stockinette on the sides and cable pattern on the center 16 sts until the hood measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14) inches from the pick-up row, ending with a WS row.
5. Hood Shaping: Fold the hood in half with the right sides together. Use a three-needle bind-off to close the top seam. This creates a neat, professional finish.

Finishing

1. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, matching the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam.
2. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams using a mattress stitch for an invisible join.
3. Weave in all ends carefully.
4. Blocking: This is a crucial step. Soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on towels, shaping to the correct measurements. Allow to dry completely. This will even out your stitches and open up the cable pattern beautifully.

Optional for extra warmth: Cut a piece of fleece or soft fabric to match the hood shape and sew it in by hand as a lining.