Free Pattern: Half Double Satellite Circle Crochet Cocoon for 0-6 Months

Half Double Satellite Circle Crochet Cocoon for 0–6 Months

Introduction

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the project I would hand you first — and I mean that sincerely. The Half Double Satellite Circle Cocoon is built from one single flat circle that you fold and seam into a soft, bell-shaped baby cocoon, so there is no complicated shaping, no armholes, and no counting to a hundred while your tea goes cold. The finished piece looks like something from a gentle space-age storybook: a deep moss-green bell with three pale lichen stripe rings orbiting the base like little planets, and a tiny gnome face peeking out near the neck. Worked in DK merino, it feels dense, squishy, and warm — exactly the texture photographers love for newborn sessions. It is perfect for a first project, a last-minute baby gift, or a photo prop you will be proud to show off.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (light worsted) merino wool, approx. 220 yds / 200 m total, split as follows:
  • 150 yds / 137 m in Moss (deep olive green)
  • 40 yds / 37 m in Lichen (pale sage green)
  • 20 yds / 18 m in Pale Lichen (soft grey-green)
  • 10 yds / 9 m in Charcoal (gnome beard and eyes)
• Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6), or whatever size gets you the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: at least 4 (or use scrap yarn loops).
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye, for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Measuring tape for checking gauge and finished size.

Finished size: approx. 16 in / 41 cm long from folded base to top edge, 11 in / 28 cm wide at the widest point, and 8 in / 20 cm wide at the neck opening. Sized for 0–6 months.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every pattern is written in shorthand. Here is every abbreviation used in this pattern, explained as if you have never crocheted a stitch in your life.

• ch – chain. Make a loop, yarn over (wrap yarn around the hook), and pull it through the loop on your hook. That is one chain.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It makes a nearly invisible join.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet. Yarn over first, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once.
• hdc-blo – half double crochet in back loop only. Every stitch has two loops at its top (a front loop nearer you and a back loop farther away). For this stitch you insert your hook under the back loop only, then work a normal hdc. This creates the ridged texture.
• hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (a decrease). Yarn over, insert hook in back loop of next stitch, pull up a loop; yarn over, insert hook in back loop of the following stitch, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through all 4 loops. Two stitches become one.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease). Insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop; insert hook into following stitch, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
• st(s) – stitch(es).
• rnd – round. One complete circuit around the circle.
• MR – magic ring. A loop of yarn you work your first stitches into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the middle.
• turn – flip your work over so you can work back along the row you just made.
• 2 hdc in next st – work two half double crochets into the same single stitch. This is an increase and makes the circle grow.

Gauge

16 hdc x 12 rounds = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm in half double crochet back loop only, worked in the round.

Why gauge matters: gauge is simply how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are bigger than mine, your cocoon will come out too large for a newborn; if they are smaller, it may be too snug. Because this pattern is one big circle, even a small difference grows with every round.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 4.0 mm hook and Moss, chain 22. Work hdc-blo in each chain and in each stitch after that, turning at the end of every row, until your swatch is about 4 in / 10 cm tall. Lay it flat, place a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 in / 10 cm, then how many rows fit in 4 in / 10 cm. If you have more stitches than 16, go up a hook size; if fewer, go down a hook size. Swatch first — it saves frogging later.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker in your first stitch of every round. When you join with a slip stitch, it is very easy to lose track of where the round began. Slip a marker into the first stitch and move it up each round.
• Do not pull your yarn tight. Tension is the number one beginner struggle. Hold the yarn gently — if your hook squeaks or your hand aches, you are gripping too hard.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch count in parentheses is your safety net. If you are off by one, fix it now rather than three rounds later.
• Work the back loop only, every time. It is tempting to forget. The back loop is the one farther from you as you look at the top of the stitch. This is what gives the cocoon its lovely ridged satellite texture.
• Keep your circle flat. If the edges start to ruffle like a potato chip, your tension is too loose or you have added extra stitches. If it cups upward into a bowl, your tension is too tight.
• Change colors at the join. When the pattern says “change to Lichen,” finish the join of the previous round with the new color so the color change hides in the seam.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Flat Circle (worked in the round, hdc-blo throughout)

With Moss, make a magic ring.

• Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), work 7 hdc into the MR, join with sl st to top of ch-2. (8 hdc)
• Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, join. (16 hdc)
• Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st; rep from * around, join. (24 hdc)
• Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, join. (32 hdc)
• Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, join. (40 hdc)
• Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 4 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts; rep from * around, join. (48 hdc)
• Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 5 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * around, join. (56 hdc)
• Rnd 8: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 6 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * around, join. (64 hdc)
• Rnd 9: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 7 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts; rep from * around, join. (72 hdc)
• Rnd 10: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 8 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts; rep from * around, join. (80 hdc)
• Rnd 11: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 9 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts; rep from * around, join. (88 hdc)
• Rnd 12: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 10 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts; rep from * around, join. (96 hdc)
• Rnd 13: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 11 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts; rep from * around, join. (104 hdc)
• Rnd 14: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 12 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 12 sts; rep from * around, join. (112 hdc)
• Rnd 15: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 13 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts; rep from * around, join. (120 hdc)
• Rnd 16: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 14 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 14 sts; rep from * around, join. (128 hdc)

Your circle should now measure approx. 16 in / 41 cm across. Do not fasten off.

Part 2: Orbiting Lichen Stripe Rings (worked in the round, hdc-blo)

Change to Lichen.

• Rnd 17: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)
• Rnd 18: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)

Change to Pale Lichen.

• Rnd 19: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)

Change to Moss.

• Rnd 20: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)
• Rnd 21: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)

Change to Lichen.

• Rnd 22: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)

Change to Moss.

• Rnd 23: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)
• Rnd 24: Ch 2, hdc-blo in each st around, join. (128 hdc)

Fasten off Moss and weave in ends. The flat circle with its three orbiting stripe rings is now complete.

Part 3: Folding and Seaming into the Bell Cocoon

• Step 1: Lay the circle flat with the right side facing up. Fold the circle in half so the stripe rings form a half-moon at the bottom.
• Step 2: Bring the two straight folded edges together to form a cone/bell shape, with the stripe rings at the narrow base and the open circle edge at the top.
• Step 3: Using Moss and a tapestry needle (or sl st with your hook), whipstitch or sl st the two side edges together from the base up to the top opening, leaving the top 8 in / 20 cm open as the neck.
• Step 4: Turn the cocoon right side out. The base is now a rounded bell bottom, the sides are seamed, and the top opening measures approx. 8 in / 20 cm across.
• Step 5: Work a finishing round of sc in Moss evenly around the top opening to neaten the edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4: Gnome Face Appliqué (worked separately, then sewn on)

Beard (make 1, in Charcoal):

• Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (7 sc)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (5 sc)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sc)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in last st. (2 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Hat (make 1, in Lichen):

• Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (9 sc)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (9 sc)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog. (7 sc)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (5 sc)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sc)
• Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in last st. (2 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Nose (make 1, in Pale Lichen): Make a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring, join with sl st. (6 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Eyes (make 2, in Charcoal): Make a magic ring, work 4 sc into the ring, join with sl st. (4 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Part 5: Assembly

• Step 1: Position the beard on the front of the cocoon, centered horizontally, approx. 3 in / 7.5 cm below the top opening. Sew in place with the Charcoal tail.
• Step 2: Position the hat directly above the beard, overlapping the top edge of the beard by 1/2 in / 1.25 cm. Sew in place with the Lichen tail.
• Step 3: Sew the nose centered on the beard, just below the hat brim.
• Step 4: Sew the two eyes on either side of the nose, spaced approx. 1 in / 2.5 cm apart.
• Step 5: Weave in all remaining ends.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming the side: Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail of Moss. Working from the base upward, insert the needle through both layers of the folded edge, going in and out in small, even stitches about 1/4 in / 6 mm long. Pull snugly but not so tight that the seam puckers. Stop when you reach the point where the neck opening should begin (8 in / 20 cm from the top edge), then knot securely on the inside and weave the tail through several stitches before trimming.

Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the back of about 2 in / 5 cm of stitches, changing direction once so it cannot work loose. Trim close to the fabric. Never knot a tail on the outside — knots can rub a baby's skin.

Blocking: Lightly mist the finished cocoon with cool water until damp but not soaking. Shape the bell with your hands, smooth the neck opening into a neat circle, and lay it flat on a towel to dry completely (usually overnight). Do not hang it — the weight of the damp wool will stretch it out of shape. Once dry, fluff the gnome face gently with your fingers.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color story. Swap Moss for dusty lavender and Lichen for cream for a softer nursery look, or use a self-striping DK yarn for the stripe rings so the color changes happen for you.
• Adjust the size. To make a larger cocoon, simply continue the increase pattern in Part 1 (each round adds 8 stitches) until the circle is the width you want, then follow Part 2 with that new stitch count. To make it smaller, stop the increases earlier.
• Substitute the yarn. Any DK weight yarn will work, but check your gauge again — cotton and acrylic behave differently from merino. For a photo prop only, a softer, drapier yarn is lovely; for a wearable, stick with wool or a wool blend for warmth.
• Skip the gnome. Leave the face off for a clean, minimalist satellite cocoon, or replace it with a simple crocheted star or moon appliqué for a different space-age touch.