The Willow Wisp Seamless Baby Hoodie Cardigan: A Free Crochet Pattern

There is something truly magical about creating a garment for a little one—especially when it comes off the hook in one seamless piece. The Willow Wisp Seamless Baby Hoodie Cardigan is exactly that kind of project: a cloud-soft, top-down crochet hoodie featuring a delicate shell-stitch yoke and a cozy, oversized hood. Whether you're a seasoned maker or a confident beginner looking for a rewarding challenge, this pattern is designed to be quick, intuitive, and utterly adorable. The muted sage green color evokes fresh willow leaves, making it a calming, earthy addition to any baby's wardrobe—and an unforgettable handmade baby shower gift.

Because this cardigan is worked from the top down in one piece, there's no seaming at the end (except for a simple hood closure), which means less finishing and more cuddling. Let's dive into everything you need to create this heirloom-quality piece.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following supplies. The beauty of this pattern is its simplicity—you only need one skein of yarn and a single hook size.

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in a soft, muted sage green. You'll need approximately 300–400 yards for the 0–3 months size (adjust for larger sizes).
• Crochet Hook: 5.5 mm (I-9) crochet hook.
• Gauge: 14 double crochet (dc) x 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in double crochet. Always check your gauge to ensure the correct fit.
• Extras: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and a stitch marker (optional but helpful for keeping track of rounds).

Understanding the Pattern

This pattern is written for 0–3 months (3–6 months, 6–12 months). Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. Before you start, familiarize yourself with these abbreviations:

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• sk = skip
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Special Stitch: Shell Stitch (Shell) – Work 5 dc in the indicated stitch or space. This creates the delicate, scalloped texture on the yoke.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Yoke (Worked Top-Down, in One Piece)

The yoke is the foundation of the cardigan. It's worked in rows, increasing gradually to shape the shoulders and chest. Follow each row carefully, counting your stitches as you go.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 52 (56, 60). Dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (50, 54, 58 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 7 (8, 9) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (56, 60, 64 dc)

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 9 (10, 11) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (62, 66, 70 dc)

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in the next 9 (10, 11) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 10 (11, 12) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (68, 72, 76 dc)

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in the next 10 (11, 12) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 11 (12, 13) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (74, 78, 82 dc)

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in the next 11 (12, 13) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 12 (13, 14) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (80, 84, 88 dc)

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in the next 12 (13, 14) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 13 (14, 15) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (86, 90, 94 dc)

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in the next 13 (14, 15) sts, *2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 14 (15, 16) sts; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Turn. (92, 96, 100 dc)

Tip: The increases in each row are evenly spaced, creating a gentle A-line shape for the yoke. If you're new to crochet, place a stitch marker at the beginning of each row to keep your place.

Part 2: Divide for Body and Sleeves

Now you'll separate the stitches for the front panels, back, and sleeves. This is the magic of seamless construction—no sewing required!

Row 9 (RS): Ch 3, dc in the next 14 (15, 16) sts (this is the front panel), ch 2, sk the next 18 (19, 20) sts (this is the first sleeve), dc in the next 36 (38, 40) sts (this is the back), ch 2, sk the next 18 (19, 20) sts (this is the second sleeve), dc in the next 15 (16, 17) sts (this is the second front panel). Turn. (68, 72, 76 dc + 4 ch)

Note: The ch-2 spaces you just created will become the underarm areas. They'll be filled in when you work the sleeves.

Part 3: The Body

You'll now work the body of the cardigan in straight rows, creating a smooth, comfortable fit.

Row 10: Ch 3, dc in each st and in each ch-2 space across. Turn. (72, 76, 80 dc)

Rows 11–18 (20, 22): Repeat Row 10. Do not turn at the end of the last row. Fasten off.

Tip: For a longer cardigan, simply add more rows here. The pattern is very forgiving—you can easily customize the length to your preference.

Part 4: The Hood

The oversized hood is what makes this cardigan so cozy. It's worked flat and then folded and seamed at the top.

Row 1 (RS): With the RS facing, join your yarn at the right front neck edge. Ch 3, dc evenly across the neck edge to the left front neck edge. Turn. (approx. 40, 44, 48 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Turn.

Rows 3–12 (14, 16): Repeat Row 2. At the end of the last row, fold the hood in half and sl st the top edges together to close. Fasten off.

Tip: When folding the hood, make sure the RS of the fabric is facing out. The sl st seam will be hidden inside the fold.

Part 5: The Sleeves

Now it's time to bring the sleeves to life. You'll work in the round, starting from the underarm.

Round 1: With the RS facing, join your yarn at the underarm. Ch 3, work 2 dc in the ch-2 space, dc in each st around the armhole, 2 dc in the other ch-2 space. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (20, 22, 24 dc)

Rounds 2–10 (12, 14): Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Tip: To avoid a visible seam on the sleeve, you can work in a continuous spiral instead of joining each round. Just be sure to mark the first stitch of each round.

Part 6: Edging

The edging gives the cardigan a polished, finished look. You'll work two rounds of single crochet.

Round 1 (Bottom Edge): With the RS facing, join your yarn at the bottom edge. Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire bottom edge, working 3 sc in each corner. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Round 2 (Front Edges and Hood): With the RS facing, join your yarn at the front edge. Ch 1, sc evenly up the front edge, around the hood, and down the other front edge. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Tip: For a neater edge, work your sc stitches into the "valleys" between the dc stitches rather than into the tops of the stitches. This creates a more uniform look.

Part 7: Finishing

Weave in all ends with your yarn needle. If desired, block the cardigan gently to even out the stitches and give it a professional finish. Lay it flat to dry.

And there you have it—a beautiful, seamless baby hoodie cardigan that looks like it came from a boutique. The Willow Wisp is perfect for gifting, and the top-down construction means you can easily adjust the size or length as you go. Whether you're a new crocheter or a seasoned pro, this pattern is a joy to make and an even greater joy to give.

Happy crocheting!