Aurora Borealis Driftwood Sweater Free Pattern – Knit a Cozy Gradient Pullover
Work 3 rounds in stockinette (knit all stitches). The yarn overs will create small holes that form the raglan increase lines—these are intentional and add to the design.
Step 3: Second Increase Round
Increase Round 2: *K9 (10, 11, 12), YO, K1, YO, K9 (10, 11, 12)* – repeat to end. [88 (96, 104, 112) sts]
Work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Step 4: Begin Color Transition
Change to Color B. Work 2 rounds in stockinette. This begins the gradient effect—the deep teal will start to soften into the dusty lavender.
Increase Round 3 (Color B): *K10 (11, 12, 13), YO, K1, YO, K10 (11, 12, 13)* – repeat to end. [96 (104, 112, 120) sts]
Work 3 rounds in stockinette (still Color B).
Increase Round 4 (Color B): *K11 (12, 13, 14), YO, K1, YO, K11 (12, 13, 14)* – repeat to end. [104 (112, 120, 128) sts]
Work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Step 5: Continue with Color C
Change to Color C. Work 2 rounds in stockinette. The blush pink begins to emerge, completing the aurora transition.
Increase Round 5 (Color C): *K12 (13, 14, 15), YO, K1, YO, K12 (13, 14, 15)* – repeat to end. [112 (120, 128, 136) sts]
Work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Increase Round 6 (Color C): *K13 (14, 15, 16), YO, K1, YO, K13 (14, 15, 16)* – repeat to end. [120 (128, 136, 144) sts]
Work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Slipped Stitch Pattern
Now you'll add the signature texture to the yoke. This pattern creates a subtle woven effect that's both elegant and cozy.
Round 1: *Sl 1, K3* – repeat to end of round.
Round 2: *K1, Sl 1, K2* – repeat to end.
Round 3: *K2, Sl 1, K1* – repeat to end.
Round 4: *K3, Sl 1* – repeat to end.
Repeat these 4 rounds until the yoke measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches from the cast-on edge. The slipped stitches will naturally pull the fabric slightly, creating that lovely driftwood texture. Don't worry if it looks a bit gathered—this is exactly what you want!
Divide for Body and Sleeves
This is the exciting moment when your sweater starts to take shape!
K 18 (20, 22, 24) sts for the back, place the next 24 (26, 28, 30) sts on a holder for the left sleeve, CO 6 (8, 10, 12) sts under the arm, K 36 (40, 44, 48) sts for the front, place the next 24 (26, 28, 30) sts on a holder for the right sleeve, CO 6 (8, 10, 12) sts under the arm, K 18 (20, 22, 24) sts to end of round. [84 (96, 108, 120) sts for body]
The underarm cast-on stitches bridge the gap between front and back, giving you room to move comfortably. The sleeve stitches are safely held aside for now.
Body
Continue in the round in stockinette stitch, maintaining the color sequence: 2 rows Color A, 2 rows Color B, 2 rows Color C, repeating. This keeps the gradient flowing down the body of the sweater.
Work even until the body measures 12 (13, 14, 15) inches from the underarm, or desired length. Try it on as you go—this is the beauty of top-down knitting! You can easily adjust the length to your preference.
Finish with 6 rounds of K1, P1 ribbing in Color A. This anchors the hem and gives it a polished, finished look. Bind off loosely to maintain stretchiness.
Sleeves
Place the held sleeve sts onto double-pointed needles (or use the magic loop method with a long circular needle). Pick up and knit 6 (8, 10, 12) sts from the underarm cast-on. [30 (34, 38, 42) sts]
