Sun Hat Brim Convertible Visor Free Crochet Pattern

Sun Hat Brim Convertible Visor: A Beginner-Friendly Summer Crochet Project

If you have ever wanted to make something you can actually wear out in the sunshine, this convertible crochet visor is the perfect first real project. It is worked almost entirely in single crochet, the very first stitch most people learn, so you only need one stitch to make the whole hat. The finished piece has a flat, rounded crown that sits lightly on your head, a wide three-inch brim that shades your face, and a soft ribbed band at the back that hugs your head comfortably. Worked in warm chocolate brown and caramel stripes, it looks like something you picked up at a Mediterranean market, and it feels firm, smooth, and surprisingly professional in your hands. If you can make a chain and a single crochet, you can make this visor.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (category 3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn, approximately 180–200 yards total. You will need about 100 yards of chocolate brown (Color A) and 80–100 yards of caramel (Color B). Cotton is recommended because it holds the brim flat and stays cool in the sun.
• Crochet hook: Size G/6, which is 4.0 mm.
• Stitch marker (at least one, ideally two).
• Tapestry needle (a large, blunt needle with a big eye for sewing in yarn ends).
• Scissors.
• Measuring tape (helpful for checking gauge and brim width).

Finished measurements:

• Fits a head circumference of 21–23 inches (53–58 cm).
• Crown diameter: approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm).
• Brim width: approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the crown edge.
• Back band opening: approximately 4 inches (10 cm) wide and 1.5 inches (4 cm) tall.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is explained below in plain English. Read this list once before you begin and you will never feel lost.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop. That is one chain.
• sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (you now have two loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again, and pull it through both loops. One single crochet made.
• dc – double crochet. Wrap the yarn over the hook first, insert the hook into the stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), wrap and pull through two loops, wrap and pull through the last two loops. (Listed here for reference; this pattern uses only single crochet.)
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert the hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. It makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
• sc2tog – single crochet two together (a decrease). Insert the hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, insert the hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, then wrap and pull through all three loops. This turns two stitches into one. (This pattern does not use it, but you may see it in variations.)
• st(s) – stitch or stitches.
• beg – beginning.
• RS / WS – right side (the outside of the hat that people see) and wrong side (the inside).
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight so there is no hole in the center. If you prefer, chain 4 and join with a sl st to make a small ring instead.
• 2 sc in next st – work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This is an increase and makes the circle grow.
• join with sl st – after working all the stitches of a round, slip stitch into the first stitch of that round to close the circle.
• turn – flip your work over so you work back in the opposite direction (used for flat rows).
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail through the last loop to lock it.

Gauge

Gauge: 18 single crochet stitches x 20 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm).

Gauge means how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern expects, your hat will be too large; if they are smaller, it will be too tight. Gauge matters here because the crown must measure about 6.5 inches across to fit a 21–23 inch head.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 4.0 mm hook and Color A, chain 22. Work 1 sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across (21 sc). Work 20 more rows of sc, turning at the end of each row. Lay the swatch flat, place a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. Then count how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 18 stitches, switch to a larger hook; if you have fewer, switch to a smaller hook. Wash and dry your swatch the way you plan to wash the hat, because cotton can change size.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round so you always know where the round begins and ends. It is the single easiest way to avoid losing your place.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Keep your tension relaxed and even. Tight stitches make a stiff, small hat that is hard to work into.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have. If you are off by one or two, fix it right away rather than later.
• Change colors on the last stitch. To switch colors, work the final single crochet of the round but pull the new color through the last two loops. This gives a clean stripe.
• Carry the unused color loosely. Let the resting yarn lie along the inside of the hat without pulling. Do not cut it unless the pattern says to.
• Work the first sc of each round into the same stitch as the joining slip stitch unless told otherwise, so you do not lose a stitch.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Crown (worked in joined rounds)

With Color A (chocolate), make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st. (12 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times, join with sl st. (18 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (24 sc)

Round 5: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (30 sc)

Round 6: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (36 sc)

Round 7: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (42 sc)

Round 8: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (48 sc)

Round 9: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (54 sc)

Round 10: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (60 sc)

Round 11: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (66 sc)

Round 12: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (72 sc)

Round 13: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (78 sc)

Round 14: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (84 sc)

Round 15: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (90 sc)

Round 16: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 14 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (96 sc)

Round 17: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 15 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (102 sc)

Round 18: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 16 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (108 sc)

Round 19: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 17 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (114 sc)

Round 20: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 18 sts] 6 times, join with sl st. (120 sc)

Rounds 21–22: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc) Change to Color B (caramel) at the end of Round 22.

Rounds 23–24: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Round 24.

Rounds 25–26: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc) Change to Color B at the end of Round 26.

Rounds 27–28: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Round 28.

Rounds 29–30: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 sc) Do not fasten off. Continue to the brim.

Part 2: Brim (worked in turned short rows along the front 72 stitches)

The brim is worked back and forth along the front 72 stitches of the crown edge, leaving the back 48 stitches open for the band. Count 72 stitches along the front and place a marker at each end.

Row 1 (RS): With Color B, ch 1, sc in each of the next 72 sts along the front edge, turn. (72 sc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (72 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] 11 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 5 sts, turn. (84 sc)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (84 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] 11 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 5 sts, turn. (96 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (96 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Row 6.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts] 11 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 5 sts, turn. (108 sc)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (108 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in first st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] 11 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in last 5 sts, turn. (120 sc)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (120 sc) Change to Color B at the end of Row 10.

Rows 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (120 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Row 12.

Rows 13–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (120 sc) Change to Color B at the end of Row 14.

Rows 15–16: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (120 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Row 16.

Rows 17–18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (120 sc) Fasten off Color A.

Part 3: Brim Edging

With Color B, work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the brim and the open back edge of the crown, working 1 sc in each stitch and 1 sc in each row-end along the sides. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Part 4: Back Band (ribbed, worked in short rows)

The band is worked along the 48 open stitches at the back of the crown.

Rows 1–4: With Color A, join yarn at the right edge of the back opening, ch 1, sc in each of the 48 sts across, turn. (48 sc) Change to Color B at the end of Row 4.

Rows 5–6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (48 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Row 6.

Rows 7–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (48 sc) Change to Color B at the end of Row 8.

Rows 9–10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (48 sc) Change to Color A at the end of Row 10.

Rows 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (48 sc) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Form the band: Fold the band in half along its length so the two short ends meet the edges of the back opening. Thread the long tail onto your tapestry needle and whipstitch (small stitches over the edge, going around the edge of both layers) the short ends to the corresponding edges of the back opening. This creates a ribbed band that sits flat against the head.
2. Weave in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the inside of several stitches, then back through a few more in the opposite direction to lock it. Trim close to the work.
3. Block: Mist the visor lightly with water, lay it flat on a towel, and shape the brim so it is flat and even. Let it dry completely, which usually takes several hours. Cotton holds its shape beautifully after blocking.
4. Optional embellishment: Add a small button or a crocheted flower at the side of the crown for a personal touch.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap chocolate and caramel for navy and cream, or sage and sand, for a completely different look. Keep the stripe rhythm the same and the pattern still works.
• Adjust the size: For a smaller head, stop the crown increases at Round 18 (108 sc) and work the brim along the front 64 stitches. For a larger head, add Round 21 of increases (126 sc) and work the brim along the front 76 stitches.
• Substitute yarn: A cotton-acrylic blend works well and is softer, but pure cotton gives the firmest brim. Always check gauge again if you change yarn.
• Make the brim wider: Add two more increase rows (Rows 19–20) before the straight rows to extend the brim by about half an inch, then continue with the straight rows as written.